Ramp is another foraged spring item that has its’ devoted
followers, me included. Some around here consider it a novelty, not the case in the Appalachian Mountains where it might be considered a religion. Just about
everywhere you go there is a festival devoted to the wild leek.
Ramps are a type of wild-growing onion generally
presented fresh with the green leaves, a purple stem attached to a small white bulb. Harvesting typically begins in late April to early May and lasts around 3
to 4 weeks. Ramps are loved or hated for their powerful onion/garlic aroma. The larger the plant the more pronounced the flavor. I usually pick them around the 6 to 8 inch height.
To clean, trim off the roots and remover the papery wrapper around the bulb as you would with scallions. Rinse in cold water to remove any dirt. Once trimmed and cleaned the entire plant is tender and ready for eating. Ramps can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week; wrapped in a damp paper towel inside a plastic bag to keep them from drying
out.
Depending on the application, the ramp can be separated into the three components. The bulb, stem and leave; each lending a different texture to the finished recipe. Ramps are very versatile; they can be eaten raw in a salad, sautéed in a vegetable medley, dried into salt and preserved into a jam.
Below is a recipe combining another spring favorite the morel in a gnocchi dish that can be a side dish or a simple main dish for a chilly spring evening after a day of foraging.
Ricotta Gnocchi with Morels, Ramps and Pancetta
Serves 4
Gnocchi:
16-ounces whole-milk ricotta
1 large egg
1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 – 1 cup flour
Set a strainer lined with a coffee filter over a bowl. Add the ricotta
and let the cheese drain for 4 hours or overnight.
In a large bowl, mix the strained ricotta, egg, cheese, and 3/4 cup of
the flour until all ingredients are incorporated. Cover and refrigerate for 15
minutes. Before shaping, put a large pot of water on the stove to bring to a
boil. Sprinkle a baking sheet with flour and set it close to your work space.
Sprinkle your hands and work surface with a little flour. Break off a
tennis-ball sized piece of the dough and roll it into a thick log about
3/4-inch thick.
Using a sharp knife or bench scraper, cut the log into 3/4″ pieces.
You can leave them as little ‘pillows’ or shape them into the traditional
grooved gnocchi by rolling them off the back of a fork with your thumb.
Transfer this batch to the baking sheet and toss with flour to prevent sticking.
Repeat rolling process with the remaining dough. Add 1 tablespoon of salt to
the water and half of the gnocchi. Gently stir the gnocchi to make sure they
don’t stick. Once they bob to the surface, let them cook an additional 2
minutes. Remove gnocchi with a slotted spoon and transfer to a colander set
over a bowl to finish draining.
2 ounces pancetta, diced
3 cloves garlic, crushed
4 ounces morels, cleaned
4 ounces ramps, cleaned
Salt and pepper
Heat large sauté pan over medium heat, add pancetta and cook until most fat is rendered
and slightly crispy. Remove pancetta, leaving fat behind. Add garlic and ramps,
cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add morels and cook until tender. Add gnocchi and heat
through, add ramp leaves and crispy pancetta, season with salt and pepper;
serve.
Pancetta, the diminutive of pancia meaning
